5 Things Not to Miss in Old Tallinn
- Cat
- Apr 14, 2017
- 5 min read
Just a short, 2-hour ferry-cruise ride across the Baltic Sea from Helsinki lies a quaint, UNESCO World Heritage Site few Americans would ever think to visit: Tallinn, Estonia. The first time we visited in 2016, we were on a Baltic cruise and this was one of the stops. We weren't expecting much at all because - Estonia, who's heard of anything special there?! It was also formerly part of the Soviet Union so we were thinking it'd be dull and grey. We were so surprised it actually ended up being one of our favorite stops, and definitely deserved another visit!
This time we took the Viking Line ferry from Helsinki. We've been on ferries before, and this ship didn't come close to comparing to any ferry we've ever been on. It was more like a small cruise boat with a duty-free shopping mall, several restaurants, a children's play area and tons of seating. The trip itself is only a 2-hour ride, so it's a perfect chance to have a cup of coffee or a drink at a booth by the windows to relax as you cross the gulf.
TIP: The alcohol is cheap in the duty-free store - buy it there as Finland is known for gouging on alcohol prices due to the taxes! Also, the food on the boat is priced very reasonably and it is good.
We arrived in the late morning hours and set straight out for Old Town - the most visited part of the city. It is an old walled city dating to the 1200s (although artifacts have been found from 5,000 years ago in Old Town!), with very well-preserved walls and towers. Once inside the walled portion, you are transported back in time - everything is so well preserved it looks like a movie set.
If you are looking for charm, Tallinn is where you need to be.
Here are 5 things in Old Town Tallinn you won't want to miss (photo galleries for each section):
The walls - Sounds boring, but you can actually climb them in some areas and get a spectacular view of the gulf and the city. Plus, there some cool and creepy sculptures near Toompea (we aren't sure if these are a permanent installation or not, but they were there on both of our visits - almost a year apart). Kiek in de Kok Tower is also interesting if only for the name. Be sure to get a picture as it provides laughs for days. It actually means Peek in the Kitchen due to the ability to see down into the kitchens of homes back in the day. There are other towers to climb if you really want to, but we thought this one was just funny.
a. NOTE: Near the bronze sculptures near Toompea, there is an awesome alley leading back down to town. There are lots of steps but this alley has some great authentic shops and good photo ops!
2. Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Cathedral - This church at the top of the hill near the old palace is absolutely stunning both outside and in, although my preference is the exterior (I like medieval Catholic cathedral interiors better). It is a Russian Orthodox church still in use and while it is not old (built in 1894), it is impressive. If you aren't planning to visit Russia, this is a very close feel to the cathedrals in St. Petersburg. There are other churches in town, one boasting that it was once the tallest building in the world (St. Olav's), one with beautiful wood carved family crests (St. Nicholas) and while those too are beautiful, this is our favorite.
a. NOTE: You cannot take photos inside the cathedral.
b. INSIDER TIP: Behind the cathedral is a post office where you can buy good quality postcards much more reasonably priced that the tourist shops in the lower part of Old Town. You can also buy stamps and mail them home. They even have a small selection of "less touristy" souvenirs.
3. Katariina Kaik (St. Catherine's Passage) - This small, almost-hidden alley behind the church has loads of charm. Many artist studios line the alley in old shops. The studios use traditional methods to create their pieces. If you want an authentic/traditional piece of art, start here.
a. INSIDER TIP: Just around the corner from the alley is a well-hidden art studio - Art Studio Ichthus. This hidden gem is a MUST SEE. The courtyard outside is adorable and picturesque. Stay right and head down the dark, steep stairs. Aleksandr's gallery is located underground in an old monastery. Even if you don't enjoy his art, the surroundings will awe and inspire. He requests a small donation to enter the gallery, you don't have to give anything, but everything is appreciated. His works are all original and one of a kind watercolors dating back many years to present. Explore all the rooms of the gallery, it's quite large. He paints scenes of town, so if you are looking for a piece from Tallinn of Tallinn - this is the place to get it. From the Gregorian chants playing over the hidden speakers, to the roaring fire and cozy atmosphere, this is the best art gallery with some history you'll see in a long time, guaranteed.
4. Raekoja Plats (Town Hall Square) - This square is the perfect vantage point to see all 5 of the town's spires (not at once). The Town Hall itself is a unique building (check out the gutter downspout dragons!) and reminded us of Dubrovnik's Town Hall. We didn't visit inside as it seemed pretty cheesy and touristy. The Town Hall Square is laden with restaurants, cafes, shops and even boasts the world's longest running pharmacy.
a. INSIDER TIP: Grab a seat at a cafe and people watch. We chose a small half underground cafe built in the 1500s and sat in the window seat for nearly 2 hours while it snowed lightly. It was relaxing, beautiful, and peaceful.
b. NOTE: Nearly everyone in town speaks VERY good English, so there's no need to worry about translating or difficulty ordering.
5. Get lost in the winding alleys of Old Town - There are so many small streets that spending a few hours simply walking around (especially choosing the streets that seem to be empty) will guarantee that you stumble upon something beautiful and memorable. Some of our favorite memories of our first trip here are from doing this - the best Stroganoff we had was in a tiny restaurant at the end of an alley. It boasted local businessmen and women on their lunch break - you know you've found a good spot when you don't hear any English! We saw the Estonian President and a slew of paparazzi when wandering around and coming upon heavily gated and guarded homes. We later found out we were in the area of embassies and governmental officials' homes. The point is, just because it's a spot on a map with a star, doesn't mean that's where you have to go. And in a town this small and accessible, wandering and "getting lost" is both easy and difficult - you know you can't get TOO lost because eventually you will hit a wall (no pun intended).
Have you been to Tallinn? What were your favorite things to see?
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